![]() The same way you drink gin in the summer, which feels like a white linen jacket, you drink whiskey as the days get shorter and don a shawl-collared cardigan by the fire. You’re a man for all seasons, and your clothes should celebrate the heat of July or the chill of December. 7 | Be in SeasonĬlothing reveals who you are, naturally, but it also reveals when you are. Keep them polished or wear them rakishly scuffed, but accept no substitutes. They’re cordovan brogues, suede chukka boots, nice loafers with or without tassels. They’re usually English ( Crockett & Jones, Edward Green, Lobb), but they can also be American ( Alden). They’re leather and expensive, because there’s not a good way to make them cheaply. Good shoes are not sneakers, which are for boys. Tuxedos have been known to shrink from years of disuse, so to speak, and hearts have been broken when a man tries to squeeze into an ancient once-fitting tux an hour before heading into public. One word of advice: If your tuxedo is neglected in the back of your wardrobe, take it out for a test drive before the big event. Yes, you only need to wear it rarely, but you’re a grown man and grown men don’t rent clothes. Even if you’re attending opening night of a Wagner opera against your will, you want to be an attractive date for whoever your attractive date is. A suit is not middle management it’s boss.īy definition, a black-tie event is important, and naturally you want to look good. The suit is a criminally overlooked aspect of the sartorial arsenal. There’s a reason these colors are available at Ralph Lauren every season, year after year. Start with classics: charcoal or a deep shade of blue. It doesn’t need too much construction (the padding that’s a hallmark of very traditional English suits), so probably an Italian suit. A suit should be comfortable, with high arm holes that allow for easy movement through the shoulders. How does this happen? Buy one from a man who’s wearing a suit and looks good in it. There is nothing banal about a suit it simply needs to be cut well and worn even better. (There’s no third way.) 4 | Fear Not the Suit Also, they can let out our waistlines - no shame there! - because if your ancient clothes don’t fit, you have two choices: get them sorted out by a tailor or donate them to charity. Have thoughts on the break of your trousers? You should, because you don’t want cloth pooling around your ankles. The sleeves of your jacket too long? That’s no surprise, because most men wear their sleeves too long. Good alterations are as important to clothing as good editing is to writing: The basics are there it just helps with the shape of things. If you don’t have a tailor, then get to know someone you trust for alterations. That also takes time, money and proximity. That’s a beautiful relationship, as important as knowing a good bartender, psychoanalyst or fishing guide. You know what he does well, and he knows what you wear well. In a perfect world, you’re friendly with a tailor. Larger men can handle clothes cut more generously. Smaller, trim men look better in concise, tidy proportions. So try to find clothes that are in harmony with your figure. That works for Don Draper, but sadly, I’m not Don Draper. A while back, every man wanted to look like he walked off the set of Mad Men, and lapels became very narrow. That means a sport coat with narrow lapels will make my large head look even larger, like a balloon that might float away, and nobody wants that. It may be because it’s full of ideas or maybe not, but it’s a fact. Your clothes can help accentuate or hide what’s worth accentuating or hiding. You’re tall, you’re stocky, you’re some other adjective of distinction. ![]() These things evolve but don’t change too drastically, which is why when you arrive at your personal sense of style, it’s a good thing to hold onto it. So consider your size, your eye and hair color, and how you want to fit into society. They should express your personality and your worldview all while fitting well. The first thing to note is that clothes should flatter you. Illustration by Hilbrand Bos 1 | Let Your Clothes Serve You
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